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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. However, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest place securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.